suspension Tips

Spring guide

NOTE driver weight in the table is without equipment!

The table is not 100% unfortunately, so if you are unsure please send us an email and we will answer as soon as we can.

Place the bike on the slopes, grab the rear screen and lift. You will now feel a "gap" called the pendant.
 

The hanging is measured as follows:

Place the bike on a pallet and measure with a thumbstock or similar from the wheel axle straight up to the screen edge. You now get a measure we call A(ex. 620 mm). Place the bike on the hill with the handlebars straight ahead. Now swing to the bike neatly at the back of the saddle (it should stop). With the bike in this position you measure again from the wheel shaft up to the screen edge. You now get a new dimension we call B (ex. 590 mm). Note that you should have a full tank and be careful not to lift the bike in the rear screen when you need to remove it from the pallet.
 
Measure A = 620 mm
Measure B = - 590 mm

Your hanging will be = 30 mm
For example, you cross and your hanging should be 30-40 mm.
 

Adjusting the pendant:

Note! The suspension must be adjusted when the shock absorber
is cold, a warm shock absorber reduces the suspension by about 8-14mm, for example when you have just driven.
Reduce the hanging = Screw clockwise
Increase the hanging = Screw counterclockwise
 
Frihänget:
Motocross 65 25-35 mm.
Motocross 80 - 85cc: 30-35 mm.
Motocross 125-250cc: 35-40 mm.
Motocross 4-stroke: 35-42 mm.
 

The seat height

How much the bike drops behind when you are sitting with full equipment
and full tank! (don't swing). Normal seat height 100-110mm.
It drops less than 95mm = for hard spring. It drops
over 110mm. = for soft spring.
 
Seat height 85cc. 95-100mm
.
Suspension Problems:
Important! When adjusting the compression or return, always adjust with max 2 click at a time.
 
compression: 
For tougher compression screw inwards.
For softer compression screw outwards.
 
return:
For slower, slower return screw inwards.
For faster, easier return screw outwards.
 
High Speed Compression Shock Absorber: 
This nut are people afraid of moving? But the thing is that many do not really know what it is doing. Yes….! If you unscrew it half a turn, the shock absorber will be softer, but it will also work further down the stroke. If you screw
in it half a lap it will be tougher and bumpier but work even higher up in the stroke. You could say that you can fine-tune the damper at high speed. For adjustment, usually between 1/4 - 1/2 turns from standard. For the most part 1/4 turns = softer.
 
Too little hang:
The rear wheel kicks up when braking and throttling, and in small pits. Generally poor attachment and can kick sideways at throttle, the mound feels uneasy.
 
Too much hang:
The rear wheel unpredictably kicks in different directions in all types of stables. Poor mounting and generally worried.
 
The rear wheel kicks:
Over small bumps, sharp edges = too hard compression. Unscrew the compression with 2 clicks at a time = softer. Kicks over medium and larger stalks, due to the shock absorber being compressed too deep in the stalks due to too fast, easy return. Screw in the return 2 clicks at a time = slower return.
 
The rear wheel kicks sideways:
For hard spring or too hard compression. Or too slow return that keeps the bike on hard, level surfaces, but becomes too slow on hard bumps and hard stalks. Unscrew the compression or return with 2 clicks in both cases.
 
Wobble, shaking the board: 
Usually caused by too much compression or slow return. Can also be due to hard springs. The symptoms include: that you drop the grip in the curves and it generally feels unstable.
 
The front fork feels too hard: 
Too hard springs or too much oil (reduce oil level 10mm), or dirt in the fork. Plain. Needs a service.
 
The front fork feels too soft: 
For soft springs, exhausted springs, too little oil (increase oil level 10mm).
 
The front fork cuts:
If you have removed the front wheel, be sure to first tighten the front axle before tightening the covers. Turn the wheel quickly and cross the brake so that it slams into the fork. Do this 3-4 times so that the wheel is centered relative to the fork. Now tighten the strings. If you have recently wandered, one of the crowns may get a bang.
 
If you suspect this, you can check with a ruler that the crowns align exactly with each other.
 
The front fork falls into the curves:
The front end is too low in relation to the rear. Raise the fork crowns by 3-4mm at a time until the problem is resolved.
 
The front fork falls outwards in the curves: 
The front end is too high in relation to the rear. Lower the forks by 3-4mm at a time until the problem is resolved.
 
Service schedule:
The damping ability of the fork legs and shock absorbers deteriorates significantly over time and is caused by the rapid degradation of the oil viscosity, as well as dirt and general wear and tear. The fork is the weak point that easily absorbs sand and clay. Therefore requires closer service intervals than the shock absorber.
 
Service review fork: 20-25 hours
Service review shock absorber: 20-25 hours
 
Other tips
Unmotivated oil leaks in the fork are a common occurrence. The oil leak is because you got dirt between the gasket and the chrome leg. Take one seal doctor Carefully insert it between the gasket and the chrome leg. Gently pull it around the leg so that you do not damage the packing box. To prevent dirt and sand from penetrating the fork, take the habit of cleaning the scrapers after each ride. Lubricate the legs with fork oil / WD40 If the substrate you are running on is dry and hard, clean every other time.